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New 3 way project, The Oakhearts....

konfyousedkonfyoused
in DIY
Finally getting down to the point where I can start taking measurements for crossover sims on these. Drivers are the MCM Select 55-5670 8" cast frame woofers, The new Dayton RS52FN fabric dome midrange, and the Fountek NeoCD1.0 ribbon tweeter. They are unfinished as yet, but plans are to use a wipe on, natural finish Danish oil.
dynamodcibelGowaTurn2S7910greywardenkennyksquamishdrocNicholas_23PWRRYDand 3 others.

Comments

  • dynamodynamo
    Very clean looking 
    konfyoused
  • jr@macjr@mac
    Nice!
    konfyoused
    I have a signature.
  • rjj45rjj45
    My thoughts exactly - "fresh and clean". I agree w Danish oil on oak - really pops the grain.
    Nice choice of drivers also.
    konfyoused
    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • konfyousedkonfyoused
    A little test on a couple spare pieces of the red oak I'm using on the Oakhearts. Left is unfinished, right is Watco natural Danish oil
    Gowa
  • KornbreadKornbread
    Wonder how Red Oak feels after using Danish oil?  The little PicoNeos for boy's dorm room were made from cheap Pine and they had a soft, flesh like feel.       
  • GowaGowa
    My JBL speakers from the '80s were finished in red oak and just oiled. They looked fantastic.
    rjj45
  • konfyousedkonfyoused
    Kornbread said:
    Wonder how Red Oak feels after using Danish oil?  The little PicoNeos for boy's dorm room were made from cheap Pine and they had a soft, flesh like feel.       
    The red oak feels just fine. Nice smooth finish to it.

  • rjj45rjj45
    I also like Danish oil on oak!

    tajaneskonfyousedGowaNicholas_23hifisideJasonP
    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • squamishdrocsquamishdroc
    Looking good - any measurements yet?

  • konfyousedkonfyoused
    So far, this is what I'm looking at, still needs fine tuning, the dip is diffraction from the mid being recessed a little bit (went too deep on my flush mount) 
  • konfyousedkonfyoused
    I got Danish oil rubbed into the 2nd cabinet the other day, I'm pretty pleased with the way it looks. Dont mind the messy shop: 
    JasonP
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    These look fantastic!  Just my opinion, but if your sim is accurate these might sound a tad bit too forward in the mids and a little hot up top.  If true I'm sure you will fix that during the voicing process.  Great work!
    kennykGowakonfyoused
  • Ron_ERon_E
    You can wet sand multiple coats of danish oil every 24 hrs if you want a smoother finish. It's something I read that guitar builders sometimes do.

    Ron
    rjj45konfyoused
  • rjj45rjj45
    Ron_E said:
    You can wet sand multiple coats of danish oil every 24 hrs if you want a smoother finish. It's something I read that guitar builders sometimes do.

    Ron
    I do a lot of danish oil finishes. I often wet sand. Using a sanding sponge works best. I suggest a 220 and 320 sponge.

    Gowakonfyoused
    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • GowaGowa
    If you take your time with oak you will be surprised just how smooth it can be. It's really a classic wood. It has a look of strength. My JBLs looked great even after 20 years.
    konfyousedrjj45
  • konfyousedkonfyoused
    Ron_E said:
    You can wet sand multiple coats of danish oil every 24 hrs if you want a smoother finish. It's something I read that guitar builders sometimes do.

    Ron
    Thanks for the tip! I've been really pleased with the way they've been turning out thus far. The ports are down firing out of the base of the cabinet, I still have to cut the hole for the port in the one pictured above, and I'll get some pics of it when I do. Still have to figure out how I'm going to do my feet as well, I'm thinking of keeping it simple and basic.

  • Tom_STom_S
    Those are looking great! The match between the baffle and sides is really good - I'm assuming the sides are veneered. 
  • konfyousedkonfyoused
    Tom_S said:
    Those are looking great! The match between the baffle and sides is really good - I'm assuming the sides are veneered. 
    Yep, cabinets are MDF, I used a 2 ply veneer over them.

  • BrannigansLawBrannigansLaw
    How did this design turn out in the end? I'm particularly interested in the bass performance with the doubled up MCM woofers, they look really nice for the price
  • konfyousedkonfyoused
    The MCM woofers are great! It's a very dynamic, smooth speaker with tons of low end. I should have them at the Meniscus event next month.
    BrannigansLawPWRRYD
  • KornbreadKornbread
    The baffles are solid oak and the cabinets veneer, does the veneer 'rub out' with the danish oil just like the baffles?  What are the dimensions and how much did the veneer cost to cover them?
  • konfyousedkonfyoused
    The cabinets are like 42 inches tall, minus the feet, like 11 wide and I think 13 deep (dont have my tape handy) The veneer does just fine with the danish oil. I got it off of ebay, it's 2 ply, and was like $60 for a 4x8 sheet.

  • KornbreadKornbread
    How well did you have to prep the mdf underneath to keep the seams from showing through the veneer? 
  • rjj45rjj45
    Kornbread said:
    How well did you have to prep the mdf underneath to keep the seams from showing through the veneer? 
    I used 2 ply Oak veneer on a recent project and it hid my usual butt joints very, very well.
    Do not try to bend it over a radius though!

    But Chahly - Stahkist don't want speakers that look good, Stahkist wants speakers that sound good!
  • PWRRYDPWRRYD
    rjj45 said:
    Kornbread said:
    How well did you have to prep the mdf underneath to keep the seams from showing through the veneer? 
    I used 2 ply Oak veneer on a recent project and it hid my usual butt joints very, very well.
    Do not try to bend it over a radius though!

    Unless it's a very large radius  ;)
  • jholtzjholtz
    edited August 2019
    I assemble the cabinets to have the most seams on the top, bottom and back. I've used 1/8" MDF which works great to cover or I've also used this Oakwood product successfully. https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/wood-veneer/phenolic.html
    Seams are a pain. The Oakwood paint-able sheets will work with round-overs if needed.


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