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Build Precursor, "Hancocks"...

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  • What I show above is it so far. Judging from the graphs, it rolls off naturally about 2k, but HD is good to roughly 1.5k.

  • Found some wood in the garage that I forgot or didnt know about. Not sure where it came from as I've never used this stuff. I was looking for scrap pieces to build baffle thickness for another pending Versabox baffle and found this stuff. Thought it was neat enough to be a front and center aesthetic point for this design. I had more than enough for the job but not much more. I sanded it down first to clean it up and applied polyurethane to seal it. Then I used the trusty West Systems epoxy and a scrap plastic faux credit card to spread it across the surface evenly. I have yet to fill in the pores completely, but have some Dap Walnut Plastic-wood for contrast in that process. I then glued it to a piece of 3/4" thick plywood for thickness, cut to width and length, and sanded the edges. I will likely just apply polyurethane to the edges and backs. I don't know that the AMTHR4 will allow for a double sided routing like in the Jaekels and Itasca, but time will tell. I saved as much of the spalting effect as possible, and effectively cut it in the best spot to provide effects at the top of both baffles, and have mirrored slots from the T111. I like how it looks. I like how it feels to the touch.
    I have a channel void to fill at the bottom of one that goes from side to side before I route rebates. I also plan on a small chamfer along the front vertical edges.


    Steve_LeeDrewsBrews6thplanet
  • edited November 27

    At some point I want to do a build with OSB.

    https://ibuildit.ca/projects/making-a-powered-sub-woofer/

  • That thought has definitely crossed my mind. I've wanted to do that ever since Ed LaFontaine built the 2 pair of "hay bails" out of OSB.
    Step 1- apply a coat of epoxy
    Step 2 - apply a second coat of epoxy
    Step 3 - sand and repeat ad infinitum

    They look really cool if done right.

  • My old infinite baffle rig for measuring buyout drivers was 100% OSB. Worked fine for that purpose. Other than covering OSB with paper backed veneer, not sure how else I would finish it and be happy with the look.

  • Those boards look exactly like the plywood siding panels I used to sheath my shed. They took exterior latex paint very well.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plytanium-Plywood-Siding-Panel-T1-11-8-IN-OC-Nominal-19-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-563-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-113699/100000016

    6thplanet
  • The link says 19/32, so that is the thicker stuff with deeper grooves. The stuff I used here is only 3/8" thick.

  • Ok so even crappier material than my shed siding... you go with that!

  • edited November 28

    I did glue a 3/4" thick plywood to the back for thickness, so it is closer to 1" thick now.
    I'm hoping the shallower grooves are less detrimental to the FR.

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