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ani_101
About
- Username
- ani_101
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- jr@mac
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Comments
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Would you be able to post a pic of the underside, got the 10" lazy Susan part. What's the ball bearing for and that too under the rear post?
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undersize the hole and then flush trim for next time, if you are going for perfect. But as you said, all the dayton ports that i have used have a bigger step going from the fixed length to the adjustable piece which goes over the fixed length.
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2 1.5" ports, Each of the length given lower on in the sheet. You can verify by changing number of port to 1, the length will drop significantly. As the area goes up, the port gets longer
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Tom, in your model you are at 100 DB, can you lower power to hit say 80-85 db, the port velocity should reduce considerably... and 15 is good
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Eitherway that upside down satori reminds me of this speaker (Image)
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I htought the ohm was omni throughout - no idea as all I could see was the cage - didn't look it up. Will do so now. There was felt pad like think surck on the cage though partway
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You didn't waste any time on that ohm walsh concept!!! Why isn't the tweet omni?
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Whats the shaded thing at the back?
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(Quote) One thing I would add to that is that you can get F3 and system Q using DATS if you have one. (Quote) Won't DATS give the box tuning? Would it also take into account the transform? Not sure how to take DATS measurment with MiniDSP. Usually …
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Ron, which spreadsheet is that forthe Linkwitz transform? Do you have a link? Also, how does what is shown in the graph translate to the mini DSP?
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I won't be able to make it to CSS either, was a long stretch anyways. I'll see you guys at IOWA
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Anyone used the big GRS ribbons and have measurements for it? XO point, distortion, any good info on them
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Thanks for the details, I haven;t tried any stair thread - understand about the PD stair tread being denser, but the Hardwood ones makes sense since stair tread or not for a given thickness and wood species the hardnedd would be the same
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(Quote) Looks like the stair threads are 3/4, are they more difficult to route than edge glued red oak or just plain old 3/4 red oak? @hifiside are you planning to cnc these? I have experince with routingred oak board from menards, but haven't trie…
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It's getting there! What the long machine under the blue cover? larger format printer/plotter?
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(Quote) how would you position the speaker on the lazer bed - the lazer needs to be at a constant distance from the surface
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am interested too...
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so you won't be doing any more auto paint cabinets? or are you making a new spray booth?
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Thanks, must have missed the note about the grill. looks good... looking forward to the finish
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Why the step? You can screw the acacia directly instead of the ply backer
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he doesn't do objective measurements. But this is the same as any speaker, put in some good parts, and build a decent XO - the difference is the box material. There have been a few pretty good 3D printed tiny speakers at some of the get togethers.…
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I too am looking for a pair of the RS28's F or A if you have it hidden somewhere. If JR doesn't jump at em, I am in line
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Looks like this is an old thread, must have gotten it just before it went dodo...
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Where did you get the outlaw 976, it seems to have been discontinued a few years ago.
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I am in for a batch
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yep, the website is visible, but not a hyperlink so cannot click on it. Can copy and paste in the browser (Image)
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(Quote) Which Sansui speakers?
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Those look good, through for DIY the round terminal is easier to do and so is the single wide speaker foot
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water based adhesive caulk works pretty good - silicone detoriate my sense of smell too